Equipment Guide for Powerlifting: What You Actually Need

The only equipment you really need for powerlifting is a bar, dumbbells, rack and bench. Everything else will either make your workout safer, more comfortable or help you lift more weight. This guide covers all of it - what matters, what doesn't and in what order you should spend your money.

Powerlifting is one of the most affordable strength sports to get into. You can work out at a commercial gym with nothing more than flat shoes and a willingness to learn. But as the weights get heavier and the years add up, choosing the right equipment is no longer so much about looking good, but more about keeping your body intact as you push harder.

This guide is organised in order of importance. Start at the top. Work your way down. Don't skip anything that concerns you.

LEVEL 1: NON-NEGOTIABLE ISSUES

These are the things you need before you get serious about the bar.

Shoes

Your feet are your foundation. Every bit of power you generate passes through them. The wrong shoes will weaken and undermine the stability of your feet.

For squats, you need either flat-soled shoes (Converse Chuck Taylors, wrestling shoes, weightlifting sneakers) or heeled weightlifting shoes. The choice depends on your anatomy and your squatting style. Low-bar squatters with good ankle mobility usually prefer flat shoes. High bar squatters and those with limited ankle mobility will benefit from a raised heel.

Flat and thin shoes are the rule in deadlifts. Every millimetre of sole height increases the range of motion you don't want. Deadlift shoes, wrestling shoes or socks (if allowed) are the standard.

In bench press, shoes matter less, but you want something with grip. Your feet are pressed to the floor. Running shoes with soft soles take the strength out of your feet.

Don't do squats or lunges in running shoes. This is not gatekeeping - it's physics. Under a heavy load, collapsible soles are unstable and inefficient.

Belt

A lifting belt doesn't protect your back like most people think. It gives your core something to brace against. Take a deep breath, push your abdominal muscles against the belt and create an internal abdominal pressure that stabilises your spine. This allows you to shift more weight safely.

You won't need a belt for the first few months of training. Learn to support without the belt first. But when your squat is above your bodyweight and your deadlift approaches 1.5 times your bodyweight, the belt starts to pay off.

The two main types are lever belts and prong belts. Lever belts are quicker to put on and take off. Prong belts have more micro-adjustment options. Both work. Get a belt that is 10 mm thick and made of genuine leather. 13 mm belts are stiffer and take longer to break in, but some lifters prefer them for maximum effort.

LEVEL 2: PERFORMANCE IMPROVEMENTS

Once you have the shoes and the belt, these are the items that make certain lifts better.

Knee sleeves

Knee sleeves keep your knees warm, provide a slight compression and give a small amount of rebound from the bottom of the squat. They alone won't prevent injuries, but warm joints are happier joints, especially as you get older or train in cold conditions.

Most lifters start using knee sleeves when the squat is heavy enough that knee comfort becomes an important factor. There is no specific weight threshold - if your knees feel better with sleeves on, use them.

The standard is 7mm neoprene sleeves. SBD, Stoic and A7 are the most common brands used in competitions. Make sure they are IPF approved if you plan to compete.

Wrist wraps

Wrist wraps stabilize your wrists during bench presses and, for some lifters, low bar squats. If your wrists are sore after heavy bench presses, wraps will likely help. Wraps are also helpful if your wrists are naturally flexible and stretch too much under load.

Stiffer wraps offer more support but less comfort. Flexible wraps are easier to wrap tightly and are more forgiving. Most lifters start with a medium stiff wrap and work up from there.

Chalk

Chalk is cheap, effective and undervalued. Liquid chalk works in commercial gyms that don't allow loose chalk. It dries your hands, improves grip and costs next to nothing per use.

If your gym allows chalk, use it. If not, liquid chalk is a good substitute. Either way, adding chalk before deadlifts and heavy rowing is standard practice for some reason - it works.

LEVEL 3: THE GRIP QUESTION

Deadlift grip is a whole debate. Options include a mixed grip (one hand above the bar, one below), a hook grip (thumb under the bar, fingers above the thumb), straps (loops of fabric that attach your hand to the bar) and a double overhand grip (which is the first to fail as the weight increases).

Either a mixed grip or a hook grip is used in competition. Straps are not allowed in competitions, but they are excellent training tools that allow you to exercise your back and legs without the grip being a limiting factor.

There is no universally correct answer. The hook grip is probably the most mechanically sound, but it requires thumb stiffness and pain tolerance. The mixed grip is the most common, but it causes asymmetric loading. There is no harm in using straps for training if you also regularly train in a competitive manner.

We cover this topic in depth in our special guide on grip solutions.

LEVEL 4: ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENT FOR THE HOME GYM

Working out at home eliminates commuting, waiting for equipment and gym politics. It's a significant investment at first, but will pay for itself within a year or two if you're consistent.

Barbell

This is the single most important piece of equipment you will own. A good powerlifting barbell has a 29 mm shaft diameter, a tapered centre, and can withstand at least 700 pounds. The knurling must be aggressive enough to hold on to without tearing your arms.

Power bars (rigid bars designed for all three lifts) are the standard for home gym powerlifters. You don't need a special squat and deadlift bar unless you're an advanced competitor.

Budget about $250-400 for a bar you won't outgrow. Cheap bars will permanently bend, lose their taper, and their sleeves will wobble. It's not worth saving money here.

Rack

A power rack (a full cage with four poles) is safer than a squat rack or half rack. The safety bars will catch your weight if you fail to squat. J-cups keep the bar at the right height for squats and benches.

Ideal for home gyms, the rack features a pull-up bar, strap pins, and a bench area with Westside holes. You can spend between $300 and $3,000. A reputable manufacturer's $500-$800 rack will serve most lifters for decades.

Bench

A competition-style bench is flat, firm and wide enough to support your upper back during a bench press. It should have a pad height of about 17-18 inches and be rated for at least 1,000 pounds.

Adjustable benches (flat to incline) are more versatile for general exercise, but they tend to be narrower and less stable than flat benches. If you only do competitive bench presses, get your own flat bench. If you want to do incline work and other additional movements, an adjustable bench is more practical.

Plates

Bumper plates suitable for deadlifts are comfortable (they're quieter and won't damage floors), but not essential. Cast iron plates are cheaper and smaller. Calibrated plates are the most accurate, but they cost considerably more.

In a home gym, a practical compromise is a combination of bumper plates for the first 135-225 pounds and iron plates for anything above that. You'll need enough weight for the heaviest work sets, plus 10-20% for growth.

Flooring

The stall mats available at the farm store are the standard home gym flooring. They are 3/4 inch thick rubber, come in 4x6 foot sections and cost about $40-50 each. Two mats under the platform protect the floor and reduce noise.

If you do a deadlift on a concrete floor without mats, the concrete will crack. If you do a deadlift on a wood floor without mats, you will destroy the wood. Mats are not optional in home gyms.

WHAT YOU DON'T NEED

Some items that are heavily marketed to powerlifters but of little use to most:

Unless you have a specific elbow problem, these are unnecessary for powerlifting. They are more relevant in strongman events or high repetition pressing.

Deadlift socks - any long socks will work. Specially made "deadlift socks" are the same product with a different label and a higher price.

Smelling salts - ammonia capsules give a short adrenaline rush. Some lifters use them in competitions. They are not a training aid and regular use reduces the effect. If you rely on them for every heavy set, you will mask fatigue and not survive it.

Great gym bags - a duffel bag holds a belt and shoes just fine.

A matching competition suit and socks - for competitions, you'll need an approved competition suit. You don't need one that matches your socks, your belt or your coach's outfit.

COMPETITION CHECKLIST

If you are competing in an IPF federation, your equipment must be on the approved checklist. You will need the following information:

• Competition suit (approved list)
• T-shirt (no logos larger than the permitted sizes).
• Long socks for deadlifts (must cover the legs).
• Belt (approved, maximum width 10 cm, maximum thickness 13 mm).
• Shoes (no open toes, no open heels).
• Wrist wraps (approved, length up to 1 m - optional).
• Knee sleeves (approved, length up to 30 cm - optional).

Check the specific rules of your federation. USAPL, IPF, CPU and other federations have slightly different lists of approved equipment. These rules change regularly, so check them before you buy.

ORDER OF PRIORITY OF EXPENDITURE

If you are building a kit from scratch and have a limited budget, the order of priority is as follows:

1. Shoes ($50-200)
2. Belt ($60-150)
3. Chalk ($5-15)
4. Knee sleeves ($50-90)
5. Wrist wraps ($20-50)
6. Straps ($10-20)
7. Competition suit ($40-80, only if competing).

Minimum investment for a well-equipped powerlifter in total: around $200-400, not counting gym memberships. That's less than what most recreational runners spend on shoes alone in a year.

EQUIPMENT MAINTENANCE

A leather belt will last for decades if you keep it dry and store it flat or hanging. Don't leave it in a hot car or crumpled in a gym bag for days.

The sleeves quickly develop an odour. After a workout, turn them inside out and let them air dry. Hand wash them with mild soap every now and then. Don't machine dry them - heat will break down the neoprene.

The soles of the shoes will wear out. Only flat shoes used for lifting will last for years. Heeled weightlifting shoes last even longer because they are designed for stationary lifting, not walking.

Bars require little maintenance. Wipe them down after use if you train in a humid environment. A light layer of 3-in-1 oil in the sleeves keeps them rolling smoothly.

FINAL RESULT

Good equipment makes training more productive and sustainable. However, no piece of equipment can make up for inconsistent training, poor programming or inadequate recovery. Get basic equipment, use it well, and add equipment as your training demands it - not because some sponsored athlete on social media told you to.

The best equipment purchase is the one that removes a real limitation from your training. If your grip gives out before your back gives out in deadlifts, get chalk or straps. If your knees hurt in the winter, get a sleeve. If you can't brace effectively, get a belt and learn how to use it properly.

Everything else is optional until it isn't.