Equipment Guide for Powerlifting: What You Actually Need

The only equipment you really need for powerlifting is a bar, plates, a rack and a bench. Everything else will either make your training safer, more comfortable or help you lift more weight. This guide covers all of it - what matters, what doesn’t and in what order you should spend your money.

Powerlifting is one of the most affordable strength sports to get into. You can work out at a commercial gym with nothing more than flat shoes and a willingness to learn. But as the weights get heavier and the years add up, choosing the right equipment becomes less about looking the part and more about keeping your body intact as you push harder.

This guide is organised in order of importance. Start at the top. Work your way down. Skip anything that doesn’t apply to you.

Level 1: non-negotiables

These are the things you need before you get serious about lifting.

Shoes

Your feet are your foundation. Every bit of power you generate passes through them. The wrong shoes leak force and undermine your stability.

For squats, you need either flat-soled shoes (Converse Chuck Taylors, wrestling shoes, weightlifting sneakers) or heeled weightlifting shoes. The choice depends on your anatomy and your squatting style. Low-bar squatters with good ankle mobility usually prefer flat shoes. High bar squatters and those with limited ankle mobility will benefit from a raised heel.

Flat and thin shoes are the rule in deadlifts. Every millimetre of sole height adds range of motion you don’t want. Deadlift shoes, wrestling shoes or socks (if allowed) are the standard.

In bench press, shoes matter less, but you want something with grip. You drive your feet into the floor, and soft running soles absorb that leg drive.

Don’t squat or deadlift in running shoes. This is not gatekeeping - it’s physics. Under a heavy load, compressible soles are unstable and inefficient.

Belt

A lifting belt doesn’t protect your back like most people think. It gives your core something to brace against. Take a deep breath, push your abs out against the belt and create intra-abdominal pressure that stabilises your spine. This allows you to move more weight safely.

You won’t need a belt for the first few months of training. Learn to brace without the belt first. But when your squat is above your bodyweight and your deadlift approaches 1.5 times your bodyweight, the belt starts to pay off.

The two main types are lever belts and prong belts. Lever belts are quicker to put on and take off. Prong belts have more micro-adjustment options. Both work. Get a belt that is 10 mm thick and made of genuine leather. 13 mm belts are stiffer and take longer to break in, but some lifters prefer them for maximal attempts.

Level 2: performance improvements

Once you have shoes and a belt, these are the items that help specific lifts.

Knee sleeves

Knee sleeves keep your knees warm, provide light compression and give a small amount of rebound from the bottom of the squat. They alone won’t prevent injuries, but warm joints are happier joints, especially as you get older or train in cold conditions.

Most lifters start using knee sleeves when the squat is heavy enough that knee comfort becomes an important factor. There is no specific weight threshold - if your knees feel better with sleeves on, use them.

The standard is 7mm neoprene sleeves. SBD, Stoic and A7 are the most common brands used in competitions. Make sure they are IPF approved if you plan to compete.

Wrist wraps

Wrist wraps stabilize your wrists during bench presses and, for some lifters, low bar squats. If your wrists are sore after heavy bench presses, wraps will likely help. Wraps also help if your wrists are naturally lax and bend back too far under load.

Stiffer wraps offer more support but less comfort. Flexible wraps are easier to wrap tightly and more forgiving. Most lifters start with a medium-stiffness wrap and adjust from there.

Chalk

Chalk is cheap, effective and undervalued. Liquid chalk works in commercial gyms that don’t allow loose chalk. It dries your hands, improves grip and costs next to nothing per use.

If your gym allows chalk, use it. If not, liquid chalk is a good substitute. Either way, chalking up before deadlifts and heavy rows is standard practice for a reason - it works.

Level 3: the grip question

Deadlift grip is a whole debate. Options include a mixed grip (one hand above the bar, one below), a hook grip (thumb against the bar, fingers wrapped over the thumb), straps (loops of fabric that tie your hands to the bar) and a double overhand grip (the first to fail as the weight increases).

In competition, lifters use either a mixed grip or a hook grip. Straps are not allowed in competition, but they are excellent training tools that let you train your back and legs without grip being the limiting factor.

There is no universally correct answer. The hook grip is probably the most mechanically sound, but it requires thumb toughness and pain tolerance. The mixed grip is the most common, but it loads the body asymmetrically. There is no harm in using straps in training as long as you also regularly train your competition grip.

We cover this topic in depth in our dedicated guide on grip solutions.

Level 4: home gym essentials

Working out at home eliminates commuting, waiting for equipment and gym politics. It’s a significant investment at first, but will pay for itself within a year or two if you’re consistent.

Barbell

This is the single most important piece of equipment you will own. A good powerlifting barbell has a 29 mm shaft diameter, a centre knurl, and is rated for at least 700 pounds. The knurling must be aggressive enough to hold on to without tearing up your hands.

Power bars (rigid bars designed for all three lifts) are the standard for home gym powerlifters. You don’t need a specialty squat or deadlift bar unless you’re an advanced competitor.

Budget about $250–400 for a bar you won’t outgrow. Cheap bars take a permanent bend, lose their straightness, and develop wobbly sleeves. It’s not worth saving money here.

Rack

A power rack (a full cage with four poles) is safer than a squat rack or half rack. The safety bars will catch the bar if you fail a squat. J-cups hold the bar at the right height for squats and bench presses.

The ideal home gym rack has a pull-up bar, spotter arms or safety pins, and Westside hole spacing (closer holes) through the bench area. You can spend between $300 and $3,000. A reputable manufacturer’s $500–$800 rack will serve most lifters for decades.

Bench

A competition-style bench is flat, firm and wide enough to support your upper back during a bench press. It should have a pad height of about 17–18 inches and be rated for at least 1,000 pounds.

Adjustable benches (flat to incline) are more versatile for general training, but they tend to be narrower and less stable than flat benches. If you only do competition-style bench presses, get a dedicated flat bench. If you want to do incline work and other accessory movements, an adjustable bench is more practical.

Plates

Bumper plates are nice for deadlifts (they’re quieter and won’t damage floors), but not essential. Cast iron plates are cheaper and thinner. Calibrated plates are the most accurate, but they cost considerably more.

In a home gym, a practical compromise is a combination of bumper plates for the first 135–225 pounds and iron plates for anything above that. You’ll need enough weight for your heaviest work sets, plus 10–20% room to grow.

Flooring

Horse stall mats from a farm supply store are the standard home gym flooring. They are 3/4 inch thick rubber, come in 4x6 foot sections and cost about $40–50 each. Two mats under your lifting area protect the floor and reduce noise.

Deadlift on bare concrete and you can crack it. Deadlift on a bare wood floor and you will destroy it. Mats are not optional in home gyms.

What you don’t need

Some items that are heavily marketed to powerlifters but of little use to most:

Elbow sleeves - unless you have a specific elbow problem, these are unnecessary for powerlifting. They are more relevant in strongman events or high repetition pressing.

Deadlift socks - any long socks will work. Specially made “deadlift socks” are the same product with a different label and a higher price.

Smelling salts - ammonia capsules give a short adrenaline rush. Some lifters use them in competitions. They are not a training aid, and regular use dulls the effect. If you rely on them for every heavy set, you are masking fatigue instead of managing it.

Fancy gym bags - a duffel bag holds a belt and shoes just fine.

A matching competition suit and socks - for competitions, you’ll need an approved competition suit. You don’t need one that matches your socks, your belt or your coach’s outfit.

Competition checklist

If you are competing in an IPF federation, your equipment must be on the approved list. You will need the following:

• Competition suit (approved list)
• T-shirt (no logos larger than the permitted sizes).
• Long socks for deadlifts (must cover the shins).
• Belt (approved, maximum width 10 cm, maximum thickness 13 mm).
• Shoes (no open toes, no open heels).
• Wrist wraps (approved, length up to 1 m - optional).
• Knee sleeves (approved, length up to 30 cm - optional).

Check the specific rules of your federation. USAPL, IPF, CPU and other federations have slightly different lists of approved equipment. These rules change regularly, so check them before you buy.

Spending priority

If you are building a kit from scratch on a limited budget, buy in this order:

1. Shoes ($50–200)
2. Belt ($60–150)
3. Chalk ($5–15)
4. Knee sleeves ($50–90)
5. Wrist wraps ($20–50)
6. Straps ($10–20)
7. Competition suit ($40–80, only if competing).

Total minimum investment for a well-equipped powerlifter: around $200–400, not counting gym membership. That’s less than what most recreational runners spend on shoes alone in a year.

Equipment maintenance

A leather belt will last for decades if you keep it dry and store it flat or hanging. Don’t leave it in a hot car or crumpled in a gym bag for days.

Knee sleeves quickly develop an odour. After a workout, turn them inside out and let them air dry. Hand wash them with mild soap every now and then. Don’t machine dry them - heat will break down the neoprene.

Shoe soles wear out, but flat shoes used only for lifting will last for years. Heeled weightlifting shoes last even longer because they are built for lifting in place, not walking.

Bars require little maintenance. Wipe them down after use if you train in a humid environment. A light layer of 3-in-1 oil in the sleeves keeps them rolling smoothly.

Final thoughts

Good equipment makes training more productive and sustainable. However, no piece of equipment can make up for inconsistent training, poor programming or inadequate recovery. Get the basics, use them well, and add equipment as your training demands it - not because some sponsored athlete on social media told you to.

The best equipment purchase is the one that removes a real limitation from your training. If your grip gives out before your back in the deadlift, get chalk or straps. If your knees ache in the winter, get sleeves. If you can’t brace effectively, get a belt and learn how to use it properly.

Everything else is optional until it isn’t.